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TVR brake servo replacement (S Series, Griffith, Chimaera, Cerbera)

This guide covers replacing the brake servo and master cylinder on TVR’s wedge-era and ‘big cat’ cars — S Series, Griffith, Chimaera and Cerbera. Like most of the running gear, the braking system is a parts-bin job built around Ford Fiesta Mk2/Mk3 components, which is good news for parts availability but does mean later cars use a different layout to early S Series cars.

⚠️ Brakes are safety-critical. Torque fasteners to the manufacturer’s spec, use new clevis pins and split pins, bleed thoroughly and pressure-test the system before driving. If you’re not confident, hand the job to a specialist.

There are two distinct factory arrangements, and many S Series cars have been converted to the later layout when the original Saab master cylinder became unobtainable.

FeatureEarly S SeriesLater (Griffith / Chimaera / Cerbera)
ServoFord Fiesta Mk3Ford Fiesta Mk3 (rotated 90°)
Master cylinderSaab, remote reservoirFord Fiesta Mk3, integral reservoir
ReservoirBulkhead-mounted, two rubber feed pipesBolted to master cylinder
Master cyl. bolt patternSaab90° offset from Saab

On early S cars the remote reservoir feeds the master cylinder via two rubber tubes that run above the right-hand exhaust manifold — these must be heat-shielded or they perish and weep fluid onto a hot pipe.

The same Ford Fiesta Mk2/Mk3 servo (1983–1997) is used across the range. Common cross-references:

SupplierPart number
TRWPSA328
Bosch0 986 485 090
Ford6186400
Ford89FB2005BC
Girling4110328

See also the dedicated brake servo PSA328 cross-reference page for donor vehicles.

Use the Ford Fiesta XR2 or 1.6i Ghia master cylinder. Two bore sizes were fitted from the factory — TVR needs the larger 22 mm bore (this is what the 4.2 Cerbera was set up for, and it’s what the rest of the range uses too). Note that the mounting holes are oriented 90° away from the Saab item, which is why a conversion needs the bulkhead redrilling.

ApplicationReservoir
Early S (original)Saab 74470810 — no longer available new
Later cars / S conversionFord Fiesta Mk3 integral
AlternativeFord Escort Mk2 reservoir

The Saab low-fluid warning sender in the reservoir cap can usually be transferred onto the Ford reservoir, or you can source a Ford loom connector and use the Ford sender instead.

Because the later servo sits with its underside exposed in the engine bay, road dirt and water collect on it and the steel can corrode through. In extreme cases the diaphragm perforates or the two halves of the servo can separate under braking — inspect underneath the servo at every service and replace if you find rust scabs or pinholes.

Converting an early S to the Ford master cylinder

Section titled “Converting an early S to the Ford master cylinder”

Because the Ford master cylinder is rotated 90° relative to the Saab one, four new bulkhead holes are required. The old and new holes overlap by only a few millimetres, which makes this the fiddly part of the job.

Hole pairOriginal spacing (Saab)New spacing (Ford)Direction to move
First diametric pair102 mm90 mmInward (closer together)
Second diametric pair90 mm102 mmOutward (further apart)
Hole diameter8 mm

The centre-to-centre offset between an old hole and its new neighbour is only 6 mm, so the new hole centre sits just 2 mm clear of the old hole’s edge.

If your existing holes have been opened up to 10 mm (very common), the new centre will land right on the old edge. The practical fix is to file the inner holes outward by 6 mm and the outer holes inward by 6 mm to form ovals, then bolt the new servo through with large penny washers and a smear of sealant to keep the bulkhead watertight.

ItemOld (Saab/early)New (Ford)
Clevis pin diameter8 mm10 mm
Brake pedal hole8 mmDrill out to 10 mm

The outlet ports on the Ford master cylinder sit roughly 45° further around than on the Saab unit, so the ends of the two front brake pipes need to be carefully re-formed (or remade) to line up. Don’t crank tight bends into existing pipe — if in doubt, make up new ones from Kunifer.

  1. Paint the new master cylinder before fitting. Pattern replacements rust very quickly in a TVR engine bay.
  2. Disconnect the steering column at the upper UJ for vastly better access to the bulkhead.
  3. Vacuum the brake fluid out of the reservoir before disconnecting any pipes — much less mess and no fluid running down painted panels.
  4. Fit the servo, master cylinder and reservoir; reconnect pipework; reconnect the clevis to the brake pedal with a new split pin.
  5. Bleed the brakes starting from the nearside rear (furthest from the master cylinder), then offside rear, nearside front, offside front. Pressure-bleed if you can — the Fiesta master cylinder can be reluctant to self-prime.
  6. With the engine off, pump the pedal until it goes hard, then start the engine — the pedal should drop noticeably as the servo pulls vacuum. Check every joint for weeps before road testing gently.

Compiled from a community workshop guide by Andrew C (andrewc.org.uk) — always verify against the original source and your own car before relying on it.